None of the gear…

I was lucky enough to be 550 meters up, at the top of Bozburun Tepesi. It was just before sunset and the resin from the pine forests mixed with the Land Rover's diesely, oily, metallic tang. The old thing had had a tough climb up the gravel track, dotted with rocks big enough to take... Continue Reading →

Dalyan Dolmus station

A Formica-wood topped table, a plastic chair and one of the worst cups of coffee I've had in my life. But a view of the local dolmus station across the road from the bakery-cafe. Ancient white Renault 12s rattle past full of families, the back seats wedged with bodies. The short cough and whir of... Continue Reading →

The smell of coffee, jasmine and two-stroke oil.

As I sit here, waiting for my molten-hot Turkish coffee to cool to a temperature that won't induce third degree burns, I'm watching my teenage years ride past. More accurately, it's the smell of the passing two-wheeled scenery in the fluorescent lights from the restaurants that's most evocative. Mingled with the coffee and the heavy... Continue Reading →

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