Musings, Writing

What it’s like to live in the real Downton Abbey

More than 30,000 tourists walked past my kitchen window in 2019.  Downton Abbey was filmed in Bampton and the library did duty as the Cottage Hospital.  Our cottage – perhaps ten yards over the narrow lane from the library – featured too, although only in passing.

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You never know who’s peering in at you.

This bus would have been followed by at least eight minibuses and perhaps three 53 seater coaches plus four or five London taxis and a couple of limousine tours.  May last year saw just over 3,000 tourists booked in at the Vesey Room, the small room given over as a Downton museum in the library.  There were at least 1,500 more tourists in tour parties who just rolled up.  That’s around 150 people a day wandering around a previously quiet, tucked-away residential village corner where people live, work from home and just try to get on with their lives.

The first we knew about Downton was in 2009 when the production company, Carnival, pushed a sheet of A4 paper through the door.  It explained that they’d like to film a new TV series in the village and asked if we’d mind if our homes featured.  Being Bampton, no-one minded at all.

The filming for the first series was a pleasure.  The crew and actors were delightful, they got on with everyone and even organised a wrap party for the village. We should have realised by the third series that its popularity, demonstrated by offers from paparazzi of big money for access to upper windows during filming, meant trouble.

Our first inkling was on a Sunday morning in 2010 when we woke to someone shouting “…and this is the cottage hospital where Thomas was…” outside our cottage just after 1000. We should have realised then and got out. Instead, we were naive enough to think it wouldn’t last. Surely the whole thing would blow over?

By the summer of 2019 we weren’t able to leave the house between April and September without fighting through hordes of tourists – we called them ‘Downton Peeries’ because of their habit of cupping their hands against private house windows and peering inside – blocking our gate.

Most of the Peeries are OK – after all, Downton’s demographic is hardly known for hard partying and substance abuse, unless the substances are prosecco and cake. These are people who, at the very least, take their litter home with them. Unfortunately, they also take souvenirs from what they think of as ’the set’ but we think of as ‘our home’. They’ve pulled roses off rosebushes, taken stones from our drystone wall, banged with their fists on our windows (they’re Victorian glass and fragile) to make our dog, who used to enjoy sitting in the sun on the windowsill, look at them for yet another Insta selfie.

 

The tourists have no sense that people – real people, rather than actors – live in Bampton.  My partner was working at home on a client call, when an American tourist banged on the kitchen window demanding, “Do you live here?”  I heard her say to her friend, “You know, there are real people living in those little houses” as though we were some sort of curious sideshow, laid on for their amusement.

The tourists seem to believe our village is a film set.  I used to run an old motorcycle and sidecar combination.  To the tourists, it was just another part of the Downton attraction.  They’d sit their children on the bike for their Insta pictures.  No-one ever asked permission.  And the children, being children, poked, prodded and pulled the bike until it broke.

There was little point in remonstrating with them.  They’d pretend not to understand, walk away, and as soon as my back was turned, hoist their flailing offspring into the saddle again.

I sold my bike before I did something I’d regret.

The guides were little better.  One Sunday in June 2017 I looked out of my living room window to see a Blue Badge Guide spreading her map out on the bonnet of my car.

When I suggested, none too kindly, that she might like to get her map off my bonnet, she summoned all her years of guiding around Oxford colleges to look down her nose and suggest there was no need to over-react.

The standard view from inside our kitchen in 2019

The problem is, Bampton provides easy gains for the tour operators – there are no entrance fees, no charges and no restrictions.  All they have to do is roll up in their buses, disgorge a cargo of tourists to wander round and gawp, and ship them out again half an hour later.

When we’ve written to the tour companies to explain what it feels like to be an exhibit in your own home, the responses channel Shaggy, circa 2000 – ‘It wasn’t me”.  No matter which tour company one writes to, it’s never their fault

Typically, the managing director of Rabbie’s, one of the mini coach operators, wrote to me to say:

“Whilst on our tour our driver asked all our passengers to respect the communities privacy and that people lived there and it was not a ‘set’ – I was pleased to hear this. We will also try as much as possible to keep our groups staggered and our policy is always 16 seat minicoaches only to try and minimise our impact on communities and the environment.

Unfortunately I’m not sure other companies are advising customers and we cannot control advise (sic) those that travel in their own cars. I witnessed a double decker touring bus from another company and can only imagine what it’s like when there are more than one of them.”

 

One of the constant stream of minicoaches we saw in 2019

It was a minibus tourist who, when I asked him not to bang on our living room window to make our dog bark for his picture, flipped me the bird and told me to f**k off.  Neighbours have reported similar occurrences, including the same response from guides


Sadly, it’s not just a problem for Bampton’s residents.  In the summer of 2019 the village church, St Mary’s, held the funeral of a serving RAF officer from RAF Brize Norton, our local base. As the deceased officer’s family and two young children were walking into the church behind his union flag-draped coffin, a large tour coach party arrived.

 

The tourists milled around the hearse, taking photographs of the funeral party and the floral tributes that read, simply, DAD. They tried to walk in to look around the church during the funeral but, fortunately, were stopped by a churchwarden. After some searching and questioning, I eventually found their guide, sitting on a bench and chatting to some of his group in the sun outside the library.  When I suggested he might like to get his tour party under control, out from the church, away from the hearse and the mourners, he suggested, casually, that he’d already asked them to stay away and it wasn’t really his problem.

It was only after I made him aware of just how disrespectful both his behaviour and his group’s actions were that he reluctantly went to gather his party. One of them, an American, suggested to me that Bampton residents ‘had just better get used to it’.

The rest of 2019’s summer continued in similar vein. I wrote to EvanEvans, one of the mass tour operators who regularly ignored the ‘unsuitable for coaches’ signs and drove 53 seat coaches into the Church Close. They sent their Head Of Operations & Contact Centre to meet us.  She was charming, helpful, sympathetic and splendid company. I hoped that things might begin to change.  The meeting achieved absolutely nothing.

EvanEvans buses still blocked the road on the north side of the church and parked directly outside the houses there.  The drivers feigned ignorance – “they just hire us in, we don’t know anything” and they claimed not to see the ‘unsuitable for coaches’ signs and drove through anyway.

An EvanEvans bus and a Rabbie’s bus blocking the road in Bampton
 

International Friends, another tour company, sent a stream of minibuses to Bampton.  By this point, we’d tried writing to their senior team, heard nothing back and so wrote to our MP, Robert Courts.  Their reply to him said: “I am very shocked and saddened by the distress being experience by your constituent as outlined in your letter.  We have had previous correspondence in the form of an email that was sent by our contact at Bampton Library to all tour operators visiting Bampton. This email detailed similar complaints from residents. Upon receiving said email we called a meeting with all of our tour guides and expressly stated that as a matter of procedure they must communicate to all customers that the privacy of local residents must be considered at all times when visiting Bampton.”  Shades of Shaggy again.  And yet again, absolutely nothing changed – tourists still peered in at our windows, took photographs through them and behaved as though the village was a film set.

It’s hard to blame the tour companies.  A 53 seat EvanEvans bus tour will set you back just short of £90 a head.  That’s nearly £5,000 a bus and we’ll often see three buses a day in peak season.  A 16 seat mini coach from Rabbie’s – another operator who, I discovered via an Instagram post from one of their guides, no longer visits the village – would have potentially grossed nearly £1,800 per minibus and they operated three separate tours which visited Bampton; one once a week; one five days a week; and another every day of the week.  That was a potential £22,700 each week from the village from just one tour company. But, to be fair, it’s not all take; Rabbie’s donated £500 to the parish church organ fund.

The truth is that the tour companies can behave exactly as they choose – and they know it.  There is little in legislation that protects private citizens from the activities of tour companies.  The District council, after two encouraging meetings and a lot of thought on their part haven’t been able to find a way to set up a Community Protection Order that would have stopped the worst excesses.  The Parish council have tried but struggled to even get a response from the tour operators. There’s no one left to appeal to – our MP has written on our behalf to the tour companies and received nothing but warm words.

More tourists
 

In 2019, more than 30,000 tourists disgorged from buses and milled around taking photos outside our house and through our windows. Even without the vandalism and aggravation, every time we looked out we wouldn’t know who’d be pointing a lens, peering in or gawping back.  Every time we went out, we’d have to push through a crowd to get to our car.

People constantly cupped their hands to peer through our windows.  Our cars were constantly sat on, leaned on and scratched because of the sheer number of tourists packed into the lane outside.  My bike got treated as a kids’ ride-on toy.  There was, perhaps worst of all, a constant stream of people outside, peering in.

I lost count of the times I had to go outside to remonstrate with them because I couldn’t hear the conference call I was supposed to be taking. Imagine that every day from April to October – without a break.

It’s not that we hate tourists. Far from it. We’ve often gone out, chatted with visitors, taken photos for them and enjoyed the conversations.  We’ve met people from all over the world and loved every minute of it. The challenge comes with the sheer weight of numbers – and particularly the constant tour bus and mini-coach parties.

2019 was the worst year so far.  Having failed to find any solution, we decided to move from the village we love and have lived in for nearly 20 years.  We started talking to agents as the season ended.

There is nothing we can do to stop the tour companies and the tourists. There’s no legislation, no support and no help. Councils and local authorities are powerless. They can put up a few signs that the tour companies will ignore, but that’s about it. Yet this sort of mass tourism blight is now a common problem. According to the World Tourism Organisation, 1.5 billion international tourist arrivals were recorded in 2019, globally — 4% up on 2018 and the tenth consecutive year of growth.

Residents need protection from the problems this sort of mass tourism brings.

Now, in June 2020 the contrast is stark; these are bleak times for so many people, but very selfishly, we have our home back. Covid has meant an end to tour parties, coaches and guides and, as guilty as I feel for saying, it’s heaven.

With travel restrictions and quarantine we have, perhaps, another year before the tour operators start again and we need to think about selling the house and moving.  But we’ll cherish every minute of peace while it lasts.

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19 thoughts on “What it’s like to live in the real Downton Abbey

  1. Michael Tanousis says:

    What a shocking tale of woe. I’m surprised that you haven’t attempted to involve the production company responsible for Downton. It must be so tiresome. I’ve never even watched it, have you?

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  2. Oh, Mark, that all sounds truly horrendous. How awful that you’ve had to think about moving, when you clearly love Bampton (which I remember, pre-Downton days, as being a delightful village). At least there’s a positive for you all in this Covid-19 situation.

    Like

  3. James Walton says:

    2/10 for resourcefulness, I’m afraid to the citizens of Bampton. No-one got a muck spreader? No knives strong enough to accidentally slash bus tyres? No-one got a lorry to park across Rabbie’s own drive for a few days? 200 shit reviews on TripAdvisor ‘watch out, the locals are furious and may spray you with paint’. No-one got any 200W speakers from their student days? Speak to your local hunt sabs? Project Fear – where Project is a verb!

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    • Trevor says:

      Mate, as a 4th generation Bamptonian I am shocked at your negativity.

      You have obviously moved to our village since it has become affluent. It’s not always been this way and we live it being busy and friendly.

      Perhaps you should start a campaign to stop the Morris men, the SPADJERS and the Shirt race to name a few! See wheee that gets you. You don’t have to live here you know.

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      • That’s a fair point, Trevor. We’ve only been here for 18 years, so in Bampton terms we’re very much blow-ins. It’s actually the first place either of us has ever felt properly at home – we love it here. ‘Busy and friendly’ is exactly how we’ve always found the village too. You know where we are – kettle’s on.

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      • casper4610 says:

        Trevor

        The problem with people like Mark McArthur-Christie is that they thought they were buying into some sort of dream existence as they have seen on some shows about English villages.

        The reality is much different with either these villages empty during the week as they are all second homes and locals having to move out to accommodate the likes of him with his watches and classic cars.

        He wants to live in some sort of a film set environment but only on his terms. Bugger everyone else attitude
        why not open a tea room for all the visitors?

        You seem to invite so many people around for tea it won’t be long at this rate for you to need a food and hygiene license from the local authority.

        Solved your problem for you Join the tour operators and make some money from those bloody tourists you hate so much.

        I wonder if the people in Cornwall said the same about you when you used to go down there on that noisy old motorbike and sidecar
        Were you not a tourist yourself then You just made a bloody racket no doubt.

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  4. Mutley Tika says:

    So sorry to hear of your predicament. What an invasion of privacy! A heartfelt thank you for preserving the dignity of a military funeral. My husband serves, we are hoping to return to our home in Clanfield this September. It sounds like much has changed. I profoundly believe in a silver lining: COVID has reduced fan traffic & I imagine Estate agents will utilise living on the “set” as desirable to unsuspecting buyers!

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  5. casper4610 says:

    I can see Trevors point .People and theire families who have always lived in the villagae are pleased with what has happend insofar as it has brought visitors and no doubt some money in . You are comming across as just a townie who feels that they have the right to something that have bought into without understanding that live in many Engish villages it is not all classic cars watches and dinner parties for the new monied arrivals

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  6. casper4610 says:

    Mark McArthur-Christie
    You don’t, however, seem to have a problem with still wanting to pollute the towns and damaging the health of people who live in them with old diesel cars and then returning home to your perfect country existence Sorry was until visitors came and looked in your windows

    Buy some blinds

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  7. Jenny Philpott says:

    What an interesting first hand account of living with the effects of tourism, thank you for sharing. I sat in front of the church the other day, devouring my Magnum after burning only half as many calories on my bike ride, thinking how beautifully peaceful it was. I didn’t however feel it would be acceptable at any stage to stick my nose against any windows. I used to live in New Zealand and I can’t quite remember a time when I did it there either.
    Tourism does of course usually equal spending. But do these Downton addicts (I am actually one too) really part with much sterling in Bampton? So, what are the benefits to the village and in particular the people that live right where the tour occurs? I don’t think anyone would enjoy any of the things mentioned, so it’s not really just a case of suck it up. I don’t have blinds and wouldn’t want them – my house is dark enough, but I wouldn’t just accept the fact that time after time visitors peer in my window, take parts of my wall and damage my flowers. Although I live in the neighbouring village, I am originally from Northern Ireland. Tourism back there has exploded (may not be the best word to use but I have first hand account of explosions and I’m not traumatised by the word so I assume no one else will be offended) since I left ten years ago. And there’s a wonderful tour I’d recommend, to see the Peaceline in Belfast and learn how the two sides of the ‘divide’ live. But I would further recommend that no tourists walk up to the houses and cup their hands on the window to have a good aul glare inside. They’d get a very different response from the owner.
    Anyway, back to Bampton. There is a wonderful piece of legislation called The Human Rights Act but unfortunately it’s pretty vague. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could add ‘no peering through residential windows’. I mean, tourism is only going to grow isn’t it, more people will be visiting these undeniably stunning villages and although the benefits can be wonderful we have to accept that there are of course huge downfalls to bus loads of people descending quite literally on your doorstep. Unless you are in that situation daily and are even having to deal with foul mouthed tourists, I don’t really think we can give direction on how to handle it all.
    So, the tour companies rake in all the cash and the residents of the tour trail get nowt. Hmmmm, something doesn’t scream ‘fair’ to me.

    Liked by 1 person

      • casper4610 says:

        I could have talked to you about bloody tourists, watches and old cars that will pollute people in cities But not here though in our lovely village sorry was until they filmed that load of rubbish Downton Abbey

        Sorry about the last thing as you like it as well. Hows your dark house?

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    • casper4610 says:

      Jenny Philpott says
      Hmmmm, something doesn’t scream ‘fair’ to me.

      Yes you buying up all the Magnums so there are none left for anyone else.

      Like

  8. casper4610 says:

    Jenny Philpott
    A lovely piece that says absolutely nothing to take the matter any further on. I can understand why you wanted to get out of New Zealand and Northern Ireland as both not exactly places where you would choose to live Keep on cycling and eating Magnums and being part of the local community.

    I am still wondering why it takes Mark McArthur-Christie so long to walk to the local shop.Is it because he has mobility problems or just bores the locals with his stories about classic cars and watches.I think if I was subjected to that I would be happy to see tourists if it deflected his attention away from me.

    One further thing Mr McArthur-Christie Role on next October when we won’t have to put up with people in London driving their old bangers sorry classic cars polluting the air Horray .

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  9. casper4610 says:

    Come on then Mr McArthur-Christie say something You put up what you say is a problem then reply to your critics Are you scared or embarrased?

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  10. casper4610 says:

    Mark McArthur-Christie says:

    Hi Jenny – you should have called by! Would have been great to see you.

    Would I get the same invite if I happen to be passing by ?

    Like

  11. casper4610 says:

    Mark McArthur-Christie says:

    The filming for the first series was a pleasure. The crew and actors were delightful, they got on with everyone and even organised a wrap party for the village.

    As the old saying goes NO SUCH THING AS A FREE LUNCH.

    Like

  12. Daniel Jones says:

    Rabbies stopped going to Bampton in 2019. This article should therefore have an amendment. Give credit where credit is due.

    Like

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